Six ways to rinse your way to healthier hair

For those of you who are familiar with this humble blog, you know that I'm always striving to take the care of my hair to the next level. In the past, I've written posts boosters you can add to your leave-in to take the experience up a notch. I also took that same concept and applied it to the deep conditioning step. Now, I'm focusing in on the step just in between the deep conditioning and leave-in. A step that many of us may not think much about. That step, my friends, is the rinse.

Before, when you thought of "the rinse", the image that crossed your mind probably consisted of the simple act of rinsing conditioner out of your hair. Well today, I'm here to provide you multiple options. I want to tell everyone of the wonderful selections available in the world of the final rinse.

Here we go.....

Tea Rinse

Also known as an herbal rinse, this step consists of pouring herbal tea over the hair and scalp just after the wash. Once applied, you can then proceed to the deep conditioning step and rinse both the tea and the conditioner out at once. You can also opt to rinse with tea after deep conditioning as the final step to your wash. The benefits to rinsing with tea are said to positively impact the health of your scalp and minimize shedding. Some who've tried this method do say that the results are similar to having used a protein conditioner. For this reason, I recommend you break out your moisturizing conditioners when you rinse with tea. This type of rinse is safe enough to do weekly. If you find it to be too drying on the hair, then you can alternate to every other wash or as needed.

Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse

This is one of my favorite rinses. As someone who suffers from an overactive scalp, this rinse is exactly what the doctor ordered. Just to refresh your memory on the benefits of this rinse, ACV helps to clarify the hair and remove build up. Because of it's low pH levels, ACV helps seal the cuticle layer locking in the moisture and protein from your deep conditioner. Make sure to dilute apple cider in water before applying to hair and scalp. It can be a bit strong if left undiluted. What I like most about this type of rinse is that you are providing a direct benefit to both the hair and scalp in one shot. Long live ACV rinses!

Cold Water Rinse

Closing the cuticle is one of the most important steps in our wash. Why spend all that time, energy and product only to allow the cuticle layer to remain vulnerable to chipping and splitting? Cool water is the perfect finisher to your weekly wash. Cold water rinses help increase stimulation to the scalp, and can also minimize shedding. Oh, and don't forget about the shine! When your cuticle layer is nice and flat, your hair strands reflect light much more easily. The result? Healthier looking, smoother hair.

Oil Rinse

Got tangles and dryness? A much needed oil rinse may just be the answer for you. Unlike the other rinses in described in this post, oil rinsing isn't done in the last step of the wash. This method actually involves adding oil to the hair after the wash but before the conditioning step. Once you've applied the desired amount of oil, you rinse with warm water then proceed to deep condition. You can play around with oils you prefer for this method, depending on how many weeks post you are etc. You may decide to go with a lighter oil like jojoba or coconut oil or something thicker and more nourishing like castor oil depending on your hair's texture and how much detangling your hair needs. Either way, your hair can definitely benefit from adding this step to the routine whenever your hair could use a little kick.

Clear Color Rinse

Though I haven't used a clear rinse in years, I can clearly remember the immediate difference in the look and feel of my hair after applying a clear rinse. Instantly my hair became shinier and more manageable. Now that I think about it, I may pick up a bottle of clear rinse next time I'm at the Ulta store with coupon in hand. Years ago, I used Jazzing clear rinse because it was cost effective and readily available. This time, I'll try to seek out some higher quality products like Fekkai salon glaze or Sebastian Colorshines. These brands claim to help seal in the cracks in the strand that lead to dry, dull looking hair by adding a layer of protection on the strand that allows the light to easily reflect. Who knows, maybe the sealing of the cracks may lead to less breakage and better protection during manipulation. Who wouldn't want that?

Conditioner Rinse

Last but certainly not least is the conditioner rinse. I know you're thinking to yourself, "why would I rinse with conditioner after I deep conditioned?" That's a great question! I've asked myself that same question in the past until I re-implemented the conditioner rinse to my routine. If you're like me, some of your favorite deep conditioners are pretty good at providing strength and moisture. But often, they excel a bit better at supporting the hair's strength more so than offering up moisture. It would be great to have an all in one conditioner that gives superior slip and moisture, but in case you haven't yet found the one, why not try adding another quick step to your wash? A conditioning rinse is nothing more than deploying your brightest and best moisturizing conditioner to finish the job once you've already deep conditioned. What you do is rinse out the deep conditioner out then apply a super-moisturizing water-based conditioner for the last few minutes prior to rinsing. The result? Hair that's soft and strong but without the stiff feeling that we all hate. The best conditioners for this use are the ones with little to no protein on the label. If you do find protein, it's usually lower on the ingredient list. Although there are some products out there branded specifically for this purpose, any moisturizing conditioner will get the job done.

With so many rinse options for healthier hair, why choose just one?

Gather around folks for the "Battle of the Pre-poo's"

So let's discuss two very different products made especially for use before the shampoo. Burt's Bees Avocado Pre-Shampoo butter and OJON restoratives hair treatment mask. Both products are made by companies who don't market exclusively to the ethic market. Both products boast of natural ingredients as their claim to fame. Although some similarities exists, there are some notable differences between the two products. Lets discuss:

You guys have heard me rave about Burt's Bees in the past. Even with my past success, I still couldn't get past the desire to have my very own jar of Ojon. I mean, the mantra of the company is "The People of Beautiful hair." Who couldn't stay away from a product like that? So I finally picked up a jar at Sephora and paid the equivalent of nearly 6.5 tubes of Burt's Bees. That's right, the Ojon Treatment was around $60.00

Burt's Bees definitely beats Ojon in the price category.

As far as the ingredients are concerned, Burt's Bees is an all natural product and so is Ojon but Ojon's main attraction is Palm Nut Oil. Before you guys start googling where you can find Palm Nut Oil, I will tell you now that it's pretty much impossible to find. Word is that the Ojon folks have the exclusive rights to this ingredient. You may find Palm Oil but that isn't exactly the same as Palm Nut Oil. Their featured ingredient is said to have the ability to penetrate the hair shaft nourishing from the inside out. Hence the name "restorative mask".

So for this round, Ojon has it!

Next let's talk about scent and texture. Both products have a thickness consistency similar to a hair grease. And both are able to melt easily into the palm of the hand just by the simple act of rubbing hands together. One, however stands hands and shoulders above in the scent category. Burt's Bees has a fresh pleasant smell that makes the entire experience that much more enjoyable. Ojon, on the other hand, has a scent that reminds me of a smoky pool hall. There's nothing like intentionally making your hair smell like you spent the evening in a smoke-filled room. I could let Ojon get by with the "natural" scent only if the scent completely disappeared after washing. Sadly, this wasn't the case. Although the scent was not a strong after washing, I was still turned off by the experience.

Another score for Burt's Bees.

Okay, so let's talk about what really matters. The results! I gotta hand it to both of these products. Burt's Bees and Ojon are both high quality created by reputable brands. But for some reason, I feel like Burt's Bees is more of a "regular use" type of product while Ojon seems like more of a "once in a while" treatment option. Both produced good results for me but nothing can compare to the excitement I felt when I first used Burt's Bees. I knew from that day that I had found a product for life. Ojon, on the other hand, I would describe as "nice to have" product more so than a "need to have." I also feel like BBs is more of a moisturizing product while Ojon leaned a little more towards strengthening.

Bottom line, both products do what they claim but I feel Burt's Bees is a much better purchase if you compare their price, result and scent. For those of you curious about Ojon, like I was, I think you can ask for samples as your local Sephora store so you can try it out for yourself. Burt's Bees pre-poo can be found at Ulta's.

Are you protecting your cuticle layer from uneccessary protein loss?

Combing is just one of those things we all have to do on a regular basis for grooming purposes and managing tangles. This is why I have to share with you some interesting facts I read about as a result of a study conducted in 1995. In the study presented at the Annual meeting of Cosmetic Scientists. Researchers sought to isolate and measure the amount of protein the hair strand loses during the simple acts of shampooing and combing. Their hypothesis was that hair fragments from the cuticle layer are chipped away gradually causing eventual deterioration of the hair strand.

As part of the study, the researchers combed strands of hair for 10 strokes, measured protein loss, then combed again for another 10 strokes, measure, and continue with the same process for up to 100 strokes. As you would imagine, they found that the amount of protein loss increased directly in correlation with the number of combing strokes each strand received. The next phase of the study involved shampooing the strands of hair. Following the shampoo, the strands were combed to see how much protein would be lost as a result the process. In this particular study, they tested the effectiveness of two separate shampoos. "Brand B" was found to offer better protection against cuticle chipping protein loss than "Brand A". Not only that, they also noticed that the strand shampooed with Brand B did not increase the protein loss amount as they continued to increase the number of combing strokes. So in other words, "B's" protection of the strand remained consistent no matter how many times the hair was combed during that session. I tried desperately to determine what ingredient(s) were unique to Brand B that set it apart from "A". No clue was given in the study other than the fact that "shampoo B [allowed the hair to] comb significantly more easily than shampoo A."

Overall, the researchers found that protein loss was the highest in non-conditioning shampoos.

Although most of the study was conducted on virgin hair, those involved in the research took it to the next level by testing chemically altered hair (permed/bleached). Obviously, hair that was chemically treated saw the highest amount of protein loss during manipulation. This is due to the changes to the hair shaft after the chemicial treatment. The cuticle layers are more prone to open up as a result of the process. This makes it easier to experience chipping during manipulation.

One of the conclusions made after testing both virgin and processed hair is that the same conditioners which helped to provide some cuticle protection to virgin hair, offered little to no protection when used on the same type of hair after a chemical process. Remember when I posted a link to Royale3086's regimen video? If you recall, Royale said she opts for products made for damaged/dry hair even if her hair looks and feels strong. I have always followed the same reasoning. Don't go by how healthy your hair seems. If you have udergone any chemical process, always reach for extra moisturizing/strengthening products made specifically for chemically treated hair. Your tresses will respond much better to these types of products, and they'll to protect your even after the product has been washed out.

I should also mention that the method researchers used to collect the lost "protein" for measurement was simply by shaking the hair strand in a container of water. The loosened hair fragments would be extracted from the water for assessment. When I read this, I thought about how much protein we could be loosing just from the simple of act regular washing. This study was quite interesting, for me, so I thought I'd list some key tips that we can learn from to protect our hair from this dreaded protein loss.

• Protein loss in the hair strand increased with the number of comb/brush strokes. Knowing this, we should always make sure that when ever we comb, we lubricate the hair with our most effect moisturizer and or natural oil. This will help to create that "ease of combing" which reduces protein loss. Ease of combing=fewer strokes.
• If you are not pre-pooing, shame on you! By pre-pooing, you are providing extra cuticle layer protection prior to the manipulation that will occur during your wash. Even if you aren't scrubbing the hair clean, there will be some friction during the process. Protect your hair, do...not....skip.....the.....pre.....poo.....step.
• Add some coconut oil to the pre-poo. Coconut oil, in a different study, was found to help penetrate the follicle bringing it's nourishing properties all the way down to where the hair needs it most.
• Always go for products designed for weak damaged hair. Even if your hair feels strong at the moment. Remember, the chipping away is gradual. If you aren't always providing your hair that protection, you might find yourself reacting to damage later on instead of protecting your hair from further damage today.
• Use detangling combs to help with ease of combing. Remember, the fewer strokes you use, the better.
• Of course, remember, to use the most extreme care you can whenever handling wet hair.
• Do not stop searching until you find the perfect conditioning shampoo. The more slip/softness the shampoo provides, the more protected your cuticle layer from excessive chipping.
• Stock up on ceramide containing products. Remember, ceramides are the quintessential glue that helps keep the cuticle layer intact. The more ceramide your strand contains, the better chance it has at withstanding damage due to manipulation.

I don't know about you, but I can certainly say that I benefited from learning from the findings that resulted from the study. Going forward, I'll be thinking about the tiny little cuticle chips that I may stand to lose anytime I get lazy, or heavy handed with my hair (especially during the wash).

Hope this helped you. I know it will make a big difference in how I approach my wash going forward.

Pre-pooing for Maximum Moisture

It wasn't too long ago when my pre-poo only consisted of rubbing in some conditioner a few minutes before I jumped in the shower to wash my hair. I figured, "as long as I did something before I washed, I was in a pretty good place." That was before I got focused and decided to target specific areas of my wash routine for maximum effectiveness.

I know that achieving the moisture strength balance is the holy grail of healthy hair. This past year, I focused much of my attention to strengthening the hair. You might remember my hair fixer series and my posts on Asience as an example. It wasn't long before I realized that I was neglecting the moisture element of my routine. Sure I deep conditioned faithfully week after week, but since I was so intent on increasing strength, my deep conditioning did little for my hair in the way of moisture.

Which came first, the moisture or the strength?

Now that I look back on my routine modifications over the past year, I kinda wished I focused on moisture first then strength. Why? Because I believe that proper moisture levels can impact some of the breakage we're plagued with. Sure, I do believe that damaged hair needs additional protein, but some of us are treating our dryness with protein believing that protein is the end all to all of our hair issues. May I ask you to consider what happens to pretty much anything that has been dampened by water. What happens to it? Yes, it becomes moist but I'd like you also to think about its level of elasticity. Pretty much anything that has been fully permeated by water becomes more pliable and resistant to breakage.
For this reason, I have spent countless man hours contemplating how I can raise, and maintain, the levels of moisture in every strand of hair from this day forward.

Ok, let's get back to the pre-poo. Today, my pre-poo step is the most elaborate of my entire wash day routine. This is because I believe that a proper pre-poo sets the stage for moisture throughout the entire process. Not too long ago, I analyzed the amount of hair I would loose during my wash day process from start to finish and determined that it was excessive and unacceptable. That's when I decided to break down each step and look for improvement opportunities. I saw my biggest opportunity in the form of my pre-poo. I was doing it as a necessity but really couldn't identify it's true benefit to my routine. I had to think about this long and hard because I felt that my results from the deep condition were far superior to my pre-poo.

Then one day things changed. I made the decision that my pre-poo was going to lead the way with regards to results. I determined that if my pre-poo step was A.MAZ.ING, then every thing that came after that would be like icing on the cake. My pre-poo has evolved greatly to what it has become today. I won't go into great detail but now it includes steam, quality conditioners, oils, and other products. I demonstrate this step in my latest video that you can see below.



So what have my results been from amping up my pre-poo routine? Let me just say that I step into the shower (before I wash my hair) feeling like I've just done an intense deep conditioning. I no longer have to wait until after the conditioner to experience the feeling of having intensely nourished hair. Since my pre-poo is all about moisture, I know that I've addressed dryness right from the get go. That way, if I'm using a strengthening deep conditioner, I no longer have to fear excessive stiffness from hair that hasn't been moisturized properly. You guys have all been there, you're trying to repair your dry damaged hair with protein, only to find out that you end up with dry stiff hair after using your conditioner. Not a good place to be.

So the take aways from this first lesson in moisture is to assess your pre-poo and begin with the end in mind. If your intention is to bring about moist, supple hair, shouldn't you try to create moist, supple hair right from the start of your routine? Take some time to reassess your pre shampoo step. Are you using products that impact the hair, or are you just trying to get through that old bottle of conditioner that didn't work for you in the first place? Do you get the same feeling of excitement when you rinse out your conditioner as you get when you rinse before the shampoo? These are some questions to seriously think about as you continue to inch your way to hair perfection.

Stay tuned, for lesson two in our Maximum Moisture series entiled: What can your shampoo do for you?